From the computer in the Truth or Consequences (T or C) library computer:
All signs point toward making today a rest day, and who are we to mess with the signs especially way out here in the desert?
To recap a bit, yesterday's ride looked to be epic on the map, and was even more than we expected because the map was wrong! Not the route, but the accomodations.
After a truly beautiful ride up to Emory pass from the west (8,228 feet, possibly the most beautiful climb I've ever done), we zoomed down the east side to Hillsboro, which our Adventure Cycling map assured us had three, count 'em, three motels and a couple of cafes. In fact, while one of the motels was barely operative, no eateries were open at all. At the only open business in town--an art gallery--we learned that the only surviving cafe is closed on Thursdays Time to reconnoiter!
The map said the next town with a motel was Hatch, pop. 1400, another 40 miles down the road. We wanted to call ahead but cellphone service was non-existent way, way out there in the desert. So we rode a fun, tailwind aided 18 miles to the next 'town', whipped out our Droid smartphone, and learned that motel had closed up two weeks ago! Help!! We called the police and asked for advice since our only other choice would be to start knocking on doors. The nice policeman suggested we turn north (opposite our route to Las Cruces) and make tracks to T or C, 15 miles up the road. Running out of options, and realizing the wind would blow us that way too, we arrived at Charles' Spa and Motel around 5:30. T or C is not a very attractive town at first blush. After one evening, however, we see it's a town trying hard to reinvent itself as an arts and crafts and spa-oriented community.
Clearly the place has seen better days, but once again we find great folks, including CJ, the guy running the motel--which has a jacuzzi on the roof, a foot reflexologist, and a massage therapist--not the sort of amenities one finds at the local Holiday Inn. We're getting massages this afternon! Half the storefronts are closed, but the ones we've tried are great, also including the Happy Belly Deli (breakfast) this morning and BellaLuca restaurant (a truly 5-star restaurant for dinner last night.) While the circumstances above dictated following Fate to T or C, we decided to make today a rest day because a BIG southwest wind is coming up--40-45 mph or more this afternoon, we are promised. The locals say breezes like this are common in the spring, and we'd be heading south, southeast right into it if we tried to do the 80 miles to Las Cruces. But once the front moves through, the wind is to shift to the northwest and we should have tailwind for at least two days, maybe more.
Some random observations: In the desert one needs very little extra clothing to stay warm even if the temperature is 45--as long as the sun's out (and shade is generally pretty hard to come by). I routinely overdress in the morning and before long am down to knee warmers, shorts, jersey, arm warmers and maybe gloves. I peel down the arm-warmers and still sweat going uphill, then get chilly going down. Dogs have very little chance when you go past them at 40 mph, but there are surprisingly few dogs on the route so far, and I'd be easy pickings on those climbs, believe me! I climb much better when it's cold out. Cars, apparently taking a cue from their drivers, are social creatures. They tend to travel in groups, and for some reason on two lane roads they tend to approach and pass one another exactly at the point where we are pedaling, the result being two cars and two cyclists all abreast of one another for one unnnerving instant. But generally the drivers have been very nice to us. Truck drivers are much better at pulling over to give us extra room than regular cars. Bur even regular cars are MUCH better about it than snowbirds in their campers--most of whom seem to think they're driving VWs. Continental Gatorskins are great! Not one cut in the tread of four tires after all these miles and plenty of glass!
People have asked about our equipment. We ride 8 year old Co-Motion Norwesters with compact cranks and 12 x 27 nine speed Shimano Ultegra parts and Eggbeater pedals. I laced and trued our 32 spoke wheels myself years ago with D-T spokes and Mavic Open Pro rims. We have Avid cantilever brakes, ergo (flat-top) road handlebars, Tubus rear racks and Jandd panniers. The bikes weigh about 40 lbs, loaded, but without water bottles. I sure wish they weighed less!!
